“In the house, everybody was making things. “Always I make them for Christmas, all my life,” she said. For Garibaldina member Michelangela “Lina” Pompilio, they’re an annual, lifelong endeavor and a reminder of her Bari upbringing. Fried ribbon-like cookies are slicked in vincotto, honey or some combination thereof for a sweet-savory bite. The pinwheel-shaped cookies traditional to the region can be found on most tables at Christmas. Part fried indulgence, part tart grape sweetness, cartellate are an Apulian wonder. (Silvia Razgova / For The Times styling by Ali Summers / For The Times) This holiday season, some of these members and officers both past and present are sharing their generational cookie recipes so you can do as the Italians do: Feed your loved ones far too many cookies. When I joined the Garibaldina Society, what struck me wasn’t just the shared love of food, which certainly exists it was the characters and stories, all of which I’m sure would have entertained my own grandmother. They sold out of thousands of cookies in less than two hours. and possibly the country - reprised its fundraising holiday market, Il Mercato, for the first time in years, calling on members to fill tables with a rainbow of cookies to be sold in pastel pink boxes. Earlier this month the oldest surviving Italian society in L.A. The delis are packed with shoppers eyeing sopressata and provolone for their large family gatherings, but nothing says Italian holidays like the cookie spread - and the bakery case is almost always a bloodbath, customers clamoring to get the last, prized pignolo.īuttery, baked, fried, dotted with maraschino cherries, thick with almond paste or littered with nuts or sprinkles, Italian cookies are a festive way to please a crowd, and the Garibaldina Society knows this. No sooner had any family member walked through her door than my own nonna would lay out a tablescape of antipasti, already arranged and plated under a sheath of plastic wrap, waiting in the fridge for just the occasion: simply the occasion of your arrival.Ĭhristmastime is when the Italian urge to feed others feels the strongest. The stereotype of the Italian nonna, or grandmother, attempting to feed you until you burst holds true - especially at the holidays.
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